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Why Do the Roma Wander?

Aug 31st, 2010 by redtambourine

One of my cousins sent me this article last week:

Why Do the Roma Wander?

Because in the old days, they had to.   By Juliet Lapidos

Seven hundred Roma have been detained in France as police dismantle their campsites–part of President Nicolas Sarkozy’s crackdown on illegal immigration. On Thursday, some 100 were flown to Romania for repatriation with 300 euros per adult and 100 euros per child to ease the transition. The Roma, also known as Gypsies (though this is a pejorative term), are associated with a peripatetic lifestyle. Why do the Roma wander?

Persecution, initially. The Roma originated in India but left the subcontinent in the 11th century, perhaps following Muslin invatsions. From there, they crossed into the Byzantine Empire, and then up to southeastern Europe by about 1300. Generally speaking, xenophobia made it dfficult for them to stop in any one place for very long, let alone establish permanent settlements. (Since it’s thought that the Roma adhered to strict purity codes, they may also have been reluctant to mix with outsiders, making assimilation unwanted on both sides.) When the Roma arrived in Western Europe in the 15th century, local populations worried they were part of an Ottoman invasion (because of their dark skin color) and the German city of Freiberg declared them outlaws. Barred from purchasing land or joining guilds, the Roma had no choice but to move about.

Wandering became a way of life, and the Roma fit into the European economy by selling merchandise in rural areas distant from shops. Angus Fraser writes in The Gypsies that “they appeared as purveyors of gossip and news, sellers of cheap wares (often made by themselves) repairers of household goods, seasonal laborers (e.g. for haymaking, pea and fruit picking, hopping); or they could function as itinerant entertainers.” With improved communication networks, the Roma continued to do seasonal work that required movement, replacing traditional caravans with trailers and campers. Some Roma now value the freedom of an itinerant lifestyle and consider it part of their culture.

Contrary to stereotype, however, wandering is no longer the default for the Roma. The communist regimes in Bulgaria and other eastern European countries forced the Roma to settle down, pushing them into segregated ghettos. Most Roma today are actually sedentary rather than peripatetic. There are no hard numbers Europe-wide, but it’s thought that the vast majority live in apartments and houses. Many of the Roma who do move from country to country are merely participating in the economically motivated and widespread migration out of Eastern Europe.

Got a question about today’s news? Ask the Explainer.

Explainer thanks Rob Kushen of the European Roma Rights Center.

Article URL: http://www.slate.com/id/2264504/
© 2010 Washingtonpost.Newsweek Interactive Co. LLC

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My Roulotte

Aug 23rd, 2010 by redtambourine

Since purchasing the book about ‘roulottes’, I have been rather obsessed with the idea that I should have a ‘roulotte’ of my own. I have just the right spot to leave it parked, and envision having campouts in it with my grandchildren — a place to sleep outdoors but off the ground —- also near to running water and a hot cup of coffee in the morning from the kitchen. We have a Fishing Camp along the banks of the Uncompahgre River in western Colorado, and there is a small stand of trees between our cabin and the river that would be a perfect spot for the ‘roulotte.’

I was a little disappointed not to see more roulottes during the Gypsy Pilgrimage, but in fact, on the last day that we were attending the festivities, we discovered that the few roulottes that actually made it to the Pilgrimage were parked down in the parking lot next to the Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer beach. Some had come on trailers; other were in attendance, by what means of transport, I don’t know; one was actually pulled by horses!

Here are photos of a few of the roulottes that I saw:

Renovated green roulotte on a trailer; it obviously arrived to the Pilgrimage by truck.

A 'bow-top' roulotte

The bow-top roulotte to the left is lively in color and decoration, and it seemed to me that the gentleman sitting on the front was posing for the crowd.

This one says, "Attention Horses"!

Much to my delight, on the morning that we were leaving the Camargue, we drove up behind the roulotte being pulled by the horses. It seemed like a fitting end to our adventure at the Gypsy Pilgrimage.

The horse-drawn roulotte that we saw as we were leaving the Pilgrimage

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Roulottes

Aug 16th, 2010 by redtambourine

The Gypsies we remember from folktales

The romantic 'Roulotte'

A ‘Roulotte’ is the French word for caravan — specifically the Gypsy home on wheels that was pulled by horses in previous times. I remember seeing Gypsies in horse-drawn caravans in Portugal, and it wasn’t so many years ago — perhaps fifteen to twenty years past. These roulottes possess a romanticism of their own and can be transformed into charming rooms by the side of one’s house. I have now seen a number of them, parked in people’s backyards, or even transported by truck and trailer from one place to another. I finally DID see one being pulled by horses in the Camargue on the day that we were leaving after the Gypsy Pilgrimage!

It is in fact, my dream to have a roulotte, so when I saw a book about roulottes and the decoration of roulottes in Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, I purchased it. Les Roulottes: Une invitation au voyage is a French edition by Jeanne Bayol, published by Aubanel. I got the last copy from the store window! The photographs, taken by Bruno Suet, are beautiful. Photographs of newly renovated and decorated roulottes are placed against old photos of Gypsy caravans. One old photo is taken around the ancient church of Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, probably from turn of the century, before there was even much of a village surrounding the church. Gypsy caravans and horses are parked in a field surrounding the church and its fortification.

A renovated 'Roulotte'

The preface of the book is written by a gentleman whose family has lived in caravans for ten generations. He says that each member of his family possesses his own caravan, and each one has its own identity. He tells us that, “The caravan is not only a style of living — it is a spirit, a mentality, an art.”

There are separate chapters about the caravans of traveling fairs and circus performers. The life in a caravan suited the needs of traveling fair people and circus performers. Perhaps this is why so many traveling fairs and circuses have been composed of Gypsy people; this lifestyle is compatible with their lifestyle of traveling. These have been traditional trades for nomadic people. There is a whole chapter devoted to the ‘Roulottes de Cirque’ featuring a red, yellow, and blue caravan decorated with golden stars Again, the old photographs are displayed in contrast to the new book photos; circus performers from the past recount their memories of traveling with the circus. One old photograph shows the circus of ‘Buffalo Bill’ being erected in a European city.

I should not have been surprised to see my favorite designer, Armand Ventilo, featured in a chapter. He is described as ‘Bohemian in his soul’. I have always loved his clothing, with its accents from the Orient and bright colors and scarves! I have always considered him an ‘affordable’ designer — a designer who sells ready-to-wear to the masses. Although I don’t believe he is Gypsy himself, much of his inspiration has come from the Spanish Gypsies. He has decorated his own roulotte with rugs and cushions and embroidered tablecloths; he has infused his surroundings with the smells and tastes of the Orient. His roulotte is described as ’shining like a jewel.’ His line of clothing is sold in his own branded boutiques throughout France, and even in some neighboring countries like Switzerland.

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Nan of the Gypsies

Aug 10th, 2010 by redtambourine

Not surprisingly, I am a person who loves to go into antique stores. I love old things, and I love the thought of the stories that go with the history of the articles one can see in an antique store. I love the surprise of never knowing what you are going to find! It’s all about ‘the hunt.’ Sometimes I even go into thrift stores, although these tend to be filled with more junk than treasures.

A recent find from a thrift store was a book titled ‘Nan of the Gypsies.’ It is a young adult book about an orphan child traveling with a Gypsy caravan. She is adopted and educated by a wealthy woman who loves her as if she were her own child. Her benefactress loses her fortune, but Nan does her part to help the household survive economically. When her long lost uncle arrives from Romania, Nan learns that her father was a famous Gypsy musician and her mother came from a wealthy and important Romanian family. When her mother and father died unexpectedly when she was a baby, she was given to her father’s sister to be raised among the Gypsies. Difficulties among the Gypsy clan forced her to leave the caravan, and thus she was adopted and raised by the wealthy woman. In the end, a neighbor boy who has loved Nan for years marries her, and they go on a Gypsy honeymoon in a ‘roulotte.’ (wooden caravan pulled by horse) It is indeed a bit of a ‘fairy tale.’

Some interesting parts of this story to me is that the book was written in 1926, and it takes place in southern California. The band of Gypsies were in fact, trying to go over the border into Mexico. This tells me that there were indeed Gypsies in the U.S. during the first part of the 20th century. Also, there is reference to how this particular band of Gypsies got into the country (not by legal means). Nan tells a friend, “We landed in the night on a lonely marshy shore. Florida they called it. The sailing barge that brought us across the sea left before daybreak, and when the sun came up we were in our caravans riding across a flat lonely country. We saw very few people because we slept days and passed through the villages at night. The police sometimes followed us to see that we kept going until we were out of the town but nobody stopped us. Then, for weeks and weeks, we were crossing the wide sandy desert. We camped a long time in the Rocky Mountains. I never did understand that, I mean why we seemed to be hiding.” This tells me that it is conceivable that many Gypsies DID come into the country illegally, without a record. (I am being a ‘genealogy detective’ again!)

There are also references in the book to the negative sterotypes that people during that time held about Gypsies: that Gypsies steal, that they lie and are not honest, and that they are mean and unkind to others. Nan proves through her actions of generosity and kindness that she carries none of those personality traits. Someone in the early part of the 20th century was trying to change the ideas that people held about the Gypsy people.

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Modern Gypsies

Aug 3rd, 2010 by redtambourine

The Gypsies we remember from folktales

The Gypsies we remember from folktales

If any of you have any romantic ideas about Gypsies, you need to let those go. There are no more Gypsies of our childhood stories, gathered around horse-drawn wooden ‘roulottes’ (caravans) and cooking outside over open fires. Men are no longer strumming guitars while women in long, flowing skirts shake tambourines and dance around the campsite. Modern Gypsies are now traveling in updated airstreams pulled by trucks, just as you might see any American pulling an RV. You are more likely to see them having picnics and camping in parking lots rather than on the open roads. Many Gypsies are no longer traveling but are settled in sedentary communities. I am sure that some of the Gypsies we saw traveled only to come to the Pilgrimage. I am told that most Gypsies in Spain are settled in communities. I have only seen one wooden ‘roulotte’ so far in Saintes-Maries, parked in the back of a Guardian’s cottage as a curious garden sculpture!

Modern Gypsies remind me of the flashy Puerto Rican gangs out of the stage show West Side Story. The young men are dressed in designer tee-shirts and sunglasses, and ornamental belts and jewelry. Sometimes they wear hats that seem to be identified with Gypsies — black felt fedoras. Many Gypsies wear tattoos, although I am also told that this is more common for Spanish Gypsies. I saw some very small, but very good looking young men walking down a street together in suits and high-heeled mens’shoes!

A Modern Gypsy home pulled by a van

A Modern Gypsy home pulled by a van

Older men have tremendous bellies, and no qualms about letting them all hang out. Whether this is a sign of stature, wealth, or indifference to how they present themselves, I don’t know. We saw well-dressed men with bellies, and bare bellies — ALL bellies adorned with chains and heavy jewelry hanging over them. Whether these bellies are due to certainly enough food, they could also be from bad diet or too much alcohol. These men with the big bellies are no longer the ‘young Turks’ but perhaps the heads of families. I am not passing judgment here, just observing.

Most Gypsy women appear to be on the heavy-set side too. Some older women look like peasants from Eastern Europe, with dowdy clothes and their hair pulled severely behind their heads or tucked under a headscarf. (which some of us would recognize as a babushka) Younger women could be attractive or not, depending on their dress and how much they cared about taking care of themselves. Gypsy women tend to marry very young, so it is not unusual to see a young woman in her early twenties with three children trailing behind her.

I was particularly interested is seeing that not all Gypsies are dark — indeed, I saw plenty of light-haired, light-eyed and light-skinned Gypsies. It makes me wonder how much mixing between populations has taken place through the centuries. My theory is that my DNA of U3b, common among the Polish, Lithuanian, and Spanish Gypsies, was picked up along the migration route of the Gypsies as they traveled through the Caucasus. I think Gypsy men must have chosen wives from the populations around the Black Sea, and those maternal/mitochrondrial DNAs have traveled along with the Gypsies into certain populations at a higher percentage because of what is called a ‘founding effect’–the tendancy for Gypsies to marry between themselves. Two of my high-resolution genetic cousins are Gypsy–that is two out of nine close matches that I have in the FamilyTreeDNA database.

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Celebration of Folco de Baroncelli

Jul 27th, 2010 by redtambourine

The last day of the Pilgrimage is a celebration of the life of Folco de Baroncelli. There is probably no one in Camargue who did more for this region, and his life and works are celebrated by the local people AND the Gypsies as he was a avid supporter of minorities, including Native Americans. He helped the Guardians gain recognition as important caretakers of the local bull herds, and was largely responsible for the ‘regeneration’ of local livestock — the bulls and the ponies of Camargue. He was also a champion of wildlife preservation.  

The day starts with a ‘running of the bulls’ through the main street, an event that is not at all what you would imagine the ‘running of the bulls’ to be. I envisioned a smaller version of Pamplona with bulls running through the streets but instead, this was a tightly controlled herding of three or four animals through the streets by the Guardians on horseback; the bulls are so tightly guided by their cowboys that you can barely see them between the horses and the Guardians as they run down the street and into the arena where they will be kept for the games later in the afternoon! The event is more about showing off the skill of the Guardians than about running bulls through the streets. The bulls went by so fast, I didn’t even get a photo!

Gypsy and town dignitaries, side-by-side at the celebration.

Gypsy and town dignitaries, side-by-side at the celebration.

After the ‘Abrivado’ — which is the running of the bulls through the streets — there is a ceremony that takes place at the tomb of Folco de Baroncelli. He died during World War II when he was in his seventies; it sounds like he was expelled from him home by the Nazis, and perhaps died of exposure to the elements, as he was already of an advanced age. His tomb remains on his homestead, called a ‘manade’, which is just a few kilometers outside of the village of Saintes-Maries. There are Gypsy dignitaries in attendance, side-by-side with dignitaries from the town. The local people are dressed in Arlesienne costume to celebrate the traditions that the Marquis loved.

Local 'Carmaguaise' in traditional costume.

Local 'Carmaguaise' in traditional costume.

The Baron is described as ‘green’ before the term was invented, as it was he who orchestrated the development of ‘bull runs carmaguaise’ (bull runs that herd the animals in a humane way) and games, including a form of tag which is played in the arena which is less dangerous to the bull’s health than to that of the ‘raseteurs’ — the young, local men who endeavor to snatch rosettes from the bull’s head without being tossed by the bull’s horns! These games, along with others that show off the skill of the Guardians’ horsemanship, are be played in the arena during the afternoon.


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Help the Roma in Hungary!

Jul 20th, 2010 by redtambourine

Jasmine Dellal is a filmmaker who has produced two films about Gypsy culture: Gypsy Caravan and American Gypsy. I have seen both of them.  American Gypsy is about a family in the United States who is Gypsy, and how they try to follow their traditional culture within the framework of modern U.S. culture. Gypsy Caravan (“When the Road Bends…“) follows 5 Romani bands from 4 countries on a USA concert tour, and then visits the musicians’ families in Romania, Macedonia, India and Spain. Critics called it the “Buena Vista Social Club of Gypsy music”, and it showed in festivals and cinemas worldwide.

Jasmine is now committed to an important project that she is raising funding for: she is taking her movie Gypsy Caravan ‘on the road’ in Hungary as an effort to raise cultural consciousness among Gypsies and Eastern Europeans alike about the contributions that the Gypsy people make to our world. The dual purpose of this trip is first, to help the Gypsy people to take pride in their own people, and secondly, to help educate the Eastern Europeans that the Gypsy people have positive contributions to make to their communities. The direct link to her project is http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/830850062/gypsy-caravan-film-on-the-road-in-hungary.

Jasmine writes:
“These days, the news about Roma in Hungary is rarely very cheerful. Amnesty International’s recent report showed that violent attacks and unrelenting discrimination against Roma continue in Eastern Europe.  Roma are still denied basic rights like access to housing, employment, and education. Hungary is a tough case, perhaps partly due to the growing influence of “radical right-wing groups” with agendas that are anti-Roma and increasingly anti-Semitic.”

Jamine’s goal is to use this film to challenge ‘Gypsy’ stereotypes — stereotypes so dangerous that there are frequent attacks on Roma purely due to their race. In the past two years, 8 Roma have been lynched in Hungary. Whole villages have been mobbed. Police don’t bother to pursue crimes against Gypsies. Employers openly reject Gypsy job applicants. Kids are kept out of school, a practice which continues even though it is banned by European courts. Adults are barred from shops and nightclubs. Racism is rampant and accepted.

This summer, she is planning to travel through Hungary using the film Gypsy Caravan to challenge the way people think. One of the best modern weapons against prejudice is film. When the film Gypsy Caravan screened in Bulgaria, the U.S. ambassador said that the U.S. spends thousands of dollars on Romani minority education projects, “when all we should really do is show this film — it makes non-Roma see ‘Gypsies’ as humans and forces us to face our own prejudice.” Gypsy Caravan was used in Transylvania to inspire grassroots change in both the way non-Gypsy people view the Gypsies, and the way that Gypsies view themselves. The film helps Gypsy people to feel proud and fight for justice. Gypsy Caravan is not a classic educational film, but it has proven a great tool for starting conversations and inspiring people.

Jasmine’s campaign has received funding from Open Society Institute, the foundation started by George Soros (Hungarian by origin). She needs to raise $8000 herself by the campaign deadline in order to qualify for the funding from Open Society Institute.

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Procession of the Saintes Maries

Jul 13th, 2010 by redtambourine

The two Saintes-Maries as they are taken out of the church

It is the second day of the Gypsy Pilgrimage, and it feels much quieter. We learn that many of the Gypsies are leaving as their Saint’s Day was yesterday. Presumably many of them arrived a day or two before us, and have already enjoyed some celebration days with friends and family. Indeed, we see a number of families packing up and leaving town in their campers. I am disappointed to see only modern campers and vans — no wooden Gypsy caravans, or ‘roulottes’ as they are called in France. It wasn’t so long ago that I saw groups of Gypsies traveling through Portugal in horse-drawn wooden caravans! I am starting to wonder if any Gypsies still live in those old, traditional ways.

The Guardians, poised to lead the Procession to the sea

The celebration of Saintes Mary Jacobe and Mary Solome is a repeat of the ceremony of yesterday, only this time, they take out the images of the other two saints. The Guardians gather again with the horses, and a crowd gathers around the doors of the church — but this crowd admittedly looks less Gypsy and more European than the crowd from the day before. A well-dressed older lady sits next to me outside of the church, her little dog in tow, and she participates in the service that is being broadcast over the loudspeaker. She has her rosary with her. I sense that this is a very religious occasion for many of the people in attendance.

Gypsy Youths holding the banner 'Pilgrimage of the People Who Travel'

Although there are less Gypsies in the audience, the same Gypsy dignitaries and town officials assist in this ceremony too, and the same Gypsy youths are carrying the banner which reads, “Pelerinage de Gens du Voyage.” I really like this banner because literally translated, it means, “Pilgrimage of the People who Travel.” That could be anyone–including me! I certainly believe that people who travel learn a lot from their experiences; perhaps traveling is the best school in life.

When the mass is over, the Saintes-Maries leave the church in their boat, symbolizing their arrival on the shores of the Camargue. They are escorted by the Guardians, women dressed in local Arlesienne costume, and are followed by pilgrims.

We follow the Procession, which takes the same route as the day before, and this time we are closer to the place of benediction in the sea. We are hoping for some better photos today. As the boat slowly enters the sea, we hear cries of  “Vive les Saintes Maries” — “Long Live the Saints Maries”.

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Saint Sara’s Procession

Jul 7th, 2010 by redtambourine

At 3:00 p.m. we are in the crush of a huge crowd that is gathering outside the entry of the church. We start out with good spots for viewing the Procession, just one row back, but we are elbowed out by a big, tall Italian tourist who keeps thrusting his arm and camera in front of me until I cannot hold my weight against him. I am pushed back into the third row. A Gypsy woman in the front row signals to my traveling companion that she is leaving, and she wants to give her spot to my friend.

Gypsy Youth Participating in the Procession

Gypsy Youth Participating in the Procession

We see the Guardians, the cowboys of the Camargue, lining up with their white horses as they will lead the procession through the streets and into the sea. Gypsy youths who are chosen to carry the banners and the flowers are now milling in the roped off area, waiting for the church doors to be thrust open with the dias holding the image of Saint Sara. Gypsy dignitaries and town officials are obviously going to walk as part of the Procession down to the sea. This is a celebration of the Gypsies and the Carmarguais. (natives of Camargue)

The church doors are opened, and Saint Sara is brought out. She begins her trip through the streets to the sea, with a crowd of people on both sides following her. People are shouting “Vive la Sainte Sara!” Many try to reach to Saint Sara to touch her, but most only manage to graze their hands along the many layered robes that are covering her body. We bolt through the back streets, hoping to get to the sea in time to secure a good vantage point to watch the benediction.

Sara the Kali in Procession to the Sea

Sara the Kali in Procession to the Sea

We are too late–it seems that many others arrived long before us to take their places along the quai extending into the sea where the ceremony will take place. We watch anyway from the back, and follow the crowd that carries the Saint Sara with the white horses leading the way into the water. The horses ride bravely into the surf, followed by the priest and the porters of the statuary of Saint Sara; she is blessed with the sea water during a brief ceremony.

The return of the Saint Sara to the church seems rather anti-climatic after the grand buzz that preceded. People disperse and the benediction party of porters and priests return the Saint Sara back to her place in the crypt of the church.

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Street Life

Jun 29th, 2010 by redtambourine

My traveling companion is very interested in the religious ceremonies, and making comparisons to religious observance across the world. I am more interested in the street life that takes place during the Pilgrimage.

Impromptu Flamenco Dance on the Street

As the service is going on, we can hear the music and dancing in the neighborhood conflicting with the loudspeaker. There are a number of musical groups performing, some more professional than others, in addition to the impromptu guitar players and flamenco dancers. My favorite is a young man who is dancing flamenco in tennis shoes, choosing different partners from the circle of people who have gathered around him. His dancing is accompanied by a lone guitar and a group of friends clapping and calling in with short shouts to accompany the dance steps. Their stage is the street, and their theatre is a table at a café. There is a lone accordian player whose small son wants to help by clapping alongside his father. On another street corner, a young boy is playing violin in front of an audience. I am told that the Gypsy musicians do not read music, but play only by instinct. Manjita LaPlata is pointed out to me, a famous Gypsy guitarist who is now close to ninety years old. He is wearing a white suit, dressed in his best for the occasion.

Young Boy Performing on his Violin

Young Boy Performing on his Violin

After the religious ceremony is over, there is a three hour lull of activity before the Procession of Saint Sara to the sea. I should have known in advance, this being France, that this was a ‘lunch break.’ Eating and resting is a midday ritual, especially in the south of France where most businesses are closed between the hours of 1:00 and 3:00 p.m. They use a phrase, “Il faut manger…” which is much different in literal translation than ‘It’s time to eat…”–”Il faut”, literally translated, means that “IT IS NECESSARY…” All activity comes to a roaring halt at lunch time, and everyone is expected to eat.

Street Musicians

Street Musicians

Of course, this was a challenge in a town that was bursting from the seams with people. There were many more people in town that the restaurants could accommodate, and in fact, many restaurants looked as though they were reserved for private parties. We had to wait until a second seating in order to be fed. In the meantime however, we had a lot of fun, peeking into restaurants where families and friends were partying to the sound of music and dancing! It is clear to me that the Gypsies know how to enjoy their life with family and friends.

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