My traveling companion is very interested in the religious ceremonies, and making comparisons to religious observance across the world. I am more interested in the street life that takes place during the Pilgrimage.
Impromptu Flamenco Dance on the Street
As the service is going on, we can hear the music and dancing in the neighborhood conflicting with the loudspeaker. There are a number of musical groups performing, some more professional than others, in addition to the impromptu guitar players and flamenco dancers. My favorite is a young man who is dancing flamenco in tennis shoes, choosing different partners from the circle of people who have gathered around him. His dancing is accompanied by a lone guitar and a group of friends clapping and calling in with short shouts to accompany the dance steps. Their stage is the street, and their theatre is a table at a café. There is a lone accordian player whose small son wants to help by clapping alongside his father. On another street corner, a young boy is playing violin in front of an audience. I am told that the Gypsy musicians do not read music, but play only by instinct. Manjita LaPlata is pointed out to me, a famous Gypsy guitarist who is now close to ninety years old. He is wearing a white suit, dressed in his best for the occasion.
Young Boy Performing on his Violin
After the religious ceremony is over, there is a three hour lull of activity before the Procession of Saint Sara to the sea. I should have known in advance, this being France, that this was a ‘lunch break.’ Eating and resting is a midday ritual, especially in the south of France where most businesses are closed between the hours of 1:00 and 3:00 p.m. They use a phrase, “Il faut manger…” which is much different in literal translation than ‘It’s time to eat…”–”Il faut”, literally translated, means that “IT IS NECESSARY…” All activity comes to a roaring halt at lunch time, and everyone is expected to eat.
Street Musicians
Of course, this was a challenge in a town that was bursting from the seams with people. There were many more people in town that the restaurants could accommodate, and in fact, many restaurants looked as though they were reserved for private parties. We had to wait until a second seating in order to be fed. In the meantime however, we had a lot of fun, peeking into restaurants where families and friends were partying to the sound of music and dancing! It is clear to me that the Gypsies know how to enjoy their life with family and friends.