The two Saintes-Maries as they are taken out of the church
It is the second day of the Gypsy Pilgrimage, and it feels much quieter. We learn that many of the Gypsies are leaving as their Saint’s Day was yesterday. Presumably many of them arrived a day or two before us, and have already enjoyed some celebration days with friends and family. Indeed, we see a number of families packing up and leaving town in their campers. I am disappointed to see only modern campers and vans — no wooden Gypsy caravans, or ‘roulottes’ as they are called in France. It wasn’t so long ago that I saw groups of Gypsies traveling through Portugal in horse-drawn wooden caravans! I am starting to wonder if any Gypsies still live in those old, traditional ways.
The Guardians, poised to lead the Procession to the sea
The celebration of Saintes Mary Jacobe and Mary Solome is a repeat of the ceremony of yesterday, only this time, they take out the images of the other two saints. The Guardians gather again with the horses, and a crowd gathers around the doors of the church — but this crowd admittedly looks less Gypsy and more European than the crowd from the day before. A well-dressed older lady sits next to me outside of the church, her little dog in tow, and she participates in the service that is being broadcast over the loudspeaker. She has her rosary with her. I sense that this is a very religious occasion for many of the people in attendance.
Gypsy Youths holding the banner 'Pilgrimage of the People Who Travel'
Although there are less Gypsies in the audience, the same Gypsy dignitaries and town officials assist in this ceremony too, and the same Gypsy youths are carrying the banner which reads, “Pelerinage de Gens du Voyage.” I really like this banner because literally translated, it means, “Pilgrimage of the People who Travel.” That could be anyone–including me! I certainly believe that people who travel learn a lot from their experiences; perhaps traveling is the best school in life.
When the mass is over, the Saintes-Maries leave the church in their boat, symbolizing their arrival on the shores of the Camargue. They are escorted by the Guardians, women dressed in local Arlesienne costume, and are followed by pilgrims.
We follow the Procession, which takes the same route as the day before, and this time we are closer to the place of benediction in the sea. We are hoping for some better photos today. As the boat slowly enters the sea, we hear cries of “Vive les Saintes Maries” — “Long Live the Saints Maries”.